#Thinning the quiver meaning install#

Although the Duralac does dry and may make a decent adhesive. Duralac forms a protective layer that keeps the metals apart.īut these products aren’t made for applications that need to be kept tight. Lanscote is similar but is made from lanolin. Tef-Gel is a teflon based sticky paste and just acts to displace water from the joint so that the electrolysis can’t get started. Most people use products like Tef-Gel, Duralac or Lanscote. Also, carbon fiber and aluminum is a very bad combination as the carbon fiber actually conducts electricity and will eat up aluminum in a saltwater environment. In the sailing forums, there is a lot of discussion about corrosion, particularly stainless steel and aluminum.

#Thinning the quiver meaning install#

I’m a sailor and installed the quiver killer inserts on my trimaran so I could install removable navigation lights. The inside threads are metric and SAE screws will not work.Īny good hardware store should have a selection of different length M5 screws to choose from.Īs far as galvanic corrosion between stainless steel and zinc is concerned, it could be a problem. Mark, I have the Quiver Killer inserts and they do not come with M5 screws. If the paper template is used with care and a sharp center punch, it is easily as accurate as a mechanical jig.) Next time I’ll probably use my paper template for the heel. (One tip: While doing this I discovered that one of the bushings on my Dynafit binding jig is off by a millimeter or so (in the rear, so it throws off the angle of the heel unit unless I’m careful. I’m looking forward to installing inserts in more of our quiver, thus saving time with our seemingly endless binding swaps. For example, you can remove the inserts by heating to soften the epoxy then rotating out with an easy-out. Thus, it is important to tighten them enough (but not too much), and perhaps locate a few dabs of epoxy under the toe unit and corners of the heel unit to give a bit more sideways stability (that’s just theory, and perhaps unnecessary).

Another concern is that the machine screws don’t have as much side-to-side stability as an epoxied binding screw. Mainly, the inserts take up a lot of real estate, thus making it more difficult to place additional binding holes in your ski for other types of bindings, or for changing binding position for and aft. Once you’ve done it once, the work really shouldn’t take much longer than a regular binding mount.

I’m happy with how quick and relatively easy the Quiver Killer install process was. This was done before the epoxy hardens, as the inserts will shift slightly just as regular binding screws do. My Dynafits (yes, these are a frankenbinding built from spare parts) went on fairly straight, but just as with a regular type Dynafit mount, it was necessary to ‘true’ the binding by placing a boot in the rig then pressing the heel to left and right until the toe unit shifted slightly and made the heel align perfectly.